Category Archives: General

Listen Slick…

Those are not my high-beams.

I’m sorry that my YJ sits as high as it does. I also apologize that your 1985 Cavalier RS sits that low.

At this point, all I can say is that you are lucky I haven’t done my HID conversion yet. And before you ask, yes my lamps are adjusted properly given the height of the vehicle and the width of the headlight mounts.

Letting me pass you was commendable but passing me later (and getting behind a vehicle that just turned on to the road) served about as much purpose as you flipping me off and slamming on your brakes. It is, at this time, I would like to inform you that the Jeep is armored, front to rear, with 3/16″ steel… minimum. My bumpers are heavier.

Since any vehicle with head lamps more than 18″ off the ground will continue to cause you discomfort, I can only suggest the following items;

1. Learn to flip your rearview mirror. Maybe this article, “How does a car’s rearview mirror work when it’s in the glare-resistant setting?” will help.
2. Failing to accomplish driving tip #1, I would suggest tinting your rear window. It will look cool on your Chevy and is perfectly legal.

Accessory Relay/Fuse Box

Trying to keep the wiring rat’s nest to a minimum, I created a Fuse and Relay box.

Parts list:
1 Project box a la Radioshack
1 Power distribution block
1 Fuse holder
4 Appropriately sized relays
4 Appropriately sized fuses
Various wires and connectors

I started by bridging the power distribution block followed by mounting it to the side of the box. The 4 fuse block was mounted to the lid.

I then drilled two holes in the lid for power access to the relays the box will contain.

After putting it all together, it successfully kept the wiring to the relays (4 wires per) from spreading all over the engine compartment.


Specific instructions would depend upon the type of box, fuse block etc you get.

All the pics, of this build, start on this page of the gallery.

Stereo Hookup

Recently I had a slight battery drain issue which I narrowed down to the stereo install. Apparently there was power applied all the time, regardless of ignition switch position. Even with the unit off, there was a significant draw.

I did some digging and found a wiring diagram for the unit.

Brown, phone mute. (unused)
Yellow, 15A fused, memory backup lead. (needs power all the time)
Yellow, 3A fused, bus power. (needs power all the time)
Red, power. (needs power when ignition is on position)
Blue/White, amp turn on. (not used at this time, but will in future)
Black, ground.
Orange/White, illumination. (connect to light switch?)
Blue, auto antenna. (LOL, on a YJ? unused)

So now I have to figure out where all this is SUPPOSED to go in the wiring harness.

Electrical Accessories

A laundry list of items to be installed.

XRC8 Winch
~400W Inverter (40A)
2x 100W SRS Lights (20A)
12V Air Compressor, OBA (30A)
12V Power Port (20A)

In theory, I’d like to have a power distribution point under the hood and in the cabin area provided the items connected don’t draw too much amperage. Clean wiring is the name of the game.

Everything that can will have a relay connected to an illuminated switch to indicate power is applied and system is active. All items will be fused as well.

The winch remote plug-in will be mounted in the switch panel.

The first order of business is to estimate what the max draw of each of these items.

Winter Planning

Since it’s too cold out to actually do any work, it’s time to make plans for the future.

I need to work on multiple systems on my YJ. Recovery, electrical, suspension and a seeping leak etc.

Recovery:
Luke over at Frontier 4×4, is currently designing a front bumper to house the Smittybilt XRC8 I will be buying soon.

Move hi-lift to rollbars or hood.

Electrical:
I will be putting LED replacement dash lights in. Half the bulbs I have are burnt out.
Get gauges working or replaced.
Alternator upgrade for winch use.
Install dash speakers.
Install 12Vdc air compressor.
Wire in XRC8 winch.

Leak:
I have a small leak at the transmission cooler that needs corrected.

Suspension:
Finally trim u-bolts.
Install bump stops.

Brakes:
Adjust E-brake

I’ll add more as I think of it.

Trailcutter MTs

Update on the Trailcutter MTs.

I just drove about 25 miles on their first snowy roads. I must say they behaving admirably for a mud terrain tire. I can only assume that it is because of the factory siping. We had about 3 inches of snow and my commute is about the same time the plows get started so most of the roads were still covered.

Build Sheet: 1994 Wrangler Sahara

Thank you for contacting the Chrysler Customer Assistance Center
regarding your 1994 Jeep Wrangler.

In response to your email regarding the build sheet information you are
seeking about your vehicle, we would like to inform you that we are
pleased to provide vehicle build information per your request.

According to our records, your vehicle was equipped from the factory
with the following:

Cloth High-Back Bucket Seats
Monotone Paint
Sahara Decor Group
90 Amp Alternator
500 Amp Maintenance Free Battery
Power Front Disc/Rear Drum Brakes
High Back Bucket Seats
Reclining Front Seats
Rear Folding Seat
Floor Carpet
Cargo Compartment Carpet
Front Floor Mats
Spare Tire Cover
Full Length Floor Console
All 3-Speed Automatic Transmissions
3-Spd. Automatic 32RH Transmission
Lock-Up Torque Converter
Command-Trac Part Time 4WD System
Dana 30/186MM Front Axle
3.07 Axle Ratio
175MM Rear Axle
4.0L Power Tech I-6 Engine
Deep Tint Sunscreen Glass
Tinted Windshield Glass
Front Door Tinted Glass
Full Metal Doors w/Roll-up Windows
Rear Window Defroster
Left Manual Mirror
Right Manual Mirror
Swing-Away Mirrors
All Vehicles W/O Power Mirrors
Heater w/Instrument Pnl Ventilation
200 KPH Primary Speedometer
Var Intermittent Windshield Wipers
Rear Window Wiper/Washer
Cigar Lighter
Single High Note Horn
Locking Glove Box
Add-A-Trunk Lockable Storage
Courtesy Lamps
Map/Dome Reading Lamps
Underhood Lamp
Halogen Headlamps
Daytime Running Headlamps
Fog Lamps
CHMSL Lamp
Painted Front Bumper
Black Rear Bumper
Bumper Extensions
Body Color Headlamp Bezels
Black Front Frame Overlay
Body Color Grille
Bodyside Side Steps
Sport Bar w/Side Padding
Federal Emissions
EVAP Control System
20 Gallon Fuel Tank
Engine Block Heater
Heavy Duty Engine Cooling
All Radio Equipped Vehicles
AM/FM Cassette Radio
4 Speakers
Fixed Long Mast Antenna
Power Rack and Pinion Steering
Leather Wrapped Steering Wheel
Heavy Duty Suspension w/Gas Shocks
Front Stabilizer Bar
Tilt Steering Column
Full Size Spare Tire
Outside Tire Carrier
P215/75R15 RBL Wrangler AT Tires
Goodyear Brand Tires
Black Hard Top
15″ Aluminum Wheels
All Aluminum Wheels
Tow Hooks
Fuel Tank Skid Plate Shield
Without Billable Fuel
Rear Spring Group Iii
GVW/Payload Rating
Left Front Spring Group Vi
Right Front Spring Group VI
Customer Preferred Package 2TV
Customer Preferred Package 24V

Clank and Grind

Earlier this morning the YJ started making this clanking grinding sound which appears to be coming from the rear axle.

After some brief troubleshooting, I determined (I think) that it’s NOT the TC or drive shaft.

1. I must be underway, forward or reverse
2. It seems to be louder in turns, specifically forward turns
3. It appears to always be there, just louder sometimes

It was 1am so I didn’t get much done with it but my thoughts are I finally killed the D35 (good thing it’s not the new 8.8) or something let loose in the brake drum.