new top – zip out windows, door windows – 4/30 new top ordered w/out door windows
front fenders – will need marker/ light turn signal relocation
rear armor coating flaking & rusting
fuel tank strap/cover needs inspected for rust
drivers door latch not working from outside
exhaust rattle has gotten worse
drivers door – lock only works with key, speaker not working
rubbing sound in steering column (intermittant)
catch in steering when cold, first thing in the morning
oil change (think it was last done at 143k )
tire rotation – check tire pressures, tread depth/wear
check alignment parts for “tweaked” – see the alignment report from CarX
get est from Todd for rust spots
Latest Jeep in the collection.
1. Aisin Warner 30-43LE out of 1993 Grand Cherokee.
Part SN: 92GE57337 VIN: 1J4GZ78S6BPC51737
2. Transmission Control Unit out of a 1993 Grand Cherokee.
3. Flywheel out of a 1999 Cherokee.
More to follow…
Walker 53458 1997 TJ 2.5″ Collector Pipe
Routes in front of the oil pan well instead of the stock YJ pipe which routes under the transmission
Bosch 15704 o2 Sensor
Instead of trying to rescue my current sensor
Magnaflow 94606 2.5″ Catalytic Converter
Supposed to be a freer flowing cat
Magnaflow 12226 2.5″ Stainless Muffler
Lifetime warranty, non-baffled, straight through muffler
Walker Exhaust tailpipe 44966
Nothing special, standard routed 2.25″ tailpipe
I am looking for a
TF999 32RH 3-speed AW4 4 spd (I’ll make up my mind) auto transmission with solenoid lockup in the central Iowa area.
No cracked cases, looking to rebuild.
Got one at Jerry Carney and Sons in Ames.
Going to get the TJ body fixed up this spring.
Here is what I am starting with:
I’ll get better pics as we start removing parts.
Removed lights, license plate and fuel filler cover.
Looks worse when its all cleaned up.
First piece of armor is clamped in place.
Looks like the tub has been pushed in about 2″.
We’ve decided we’ll need to cut into to the floor to relieve tension where it’s folded over and patch that when it’s back to shape.
Got it all put back together. Still need to church it up a bit. Looks a lot better than it did.
The ’94 had some frame rot near the shackle hangers in the rear. It’s a common issue with these Jeeps and pretty easy to fix.
I bought a set of these…
From there it’s a simple matter of cutting out the rust and welding in the plates.
Not a pretty fix, but the tire hides it well enough. You need to get under the Jeep to really see the repair.
It’s been daily driven and wheeled with this in place with no apparent issues to date.
Trying to keep the wiring rat’s nest to a minimum, I created a Fuse and Relay box.
1 Project box a la Radioshack
1 Power distribution block
1 Fuse holder
4 Appropriately sized relays
4 Appropriately sized fuses
Various wires and connectors
I started by bridging the power distribution block followed by mounting it to the side of the box. The 4 fuse block was mounted to the lid.
I then drilled two holes in the lid for power access to the relays the box will contain.
After putting it all together, it successfully kept the wiring to the relays (4 wires per) from spreading all over the engine compartment.
Specific instructions would depend upon the type of box, fuse block etc you get.
All the pics, of this build, start on this page of the gallery.
I busted my turn signal stem today and, apparently, you can’t get just the stem from dealerships anymore. They sell the stem and switch as a single unit for $144.
I ordered just the stem from JeepsAreUs. I have never used them before so we’ll see how it goes. Roughly $36 including shipping.
I’ll comment on the post when I billing hits the card, I get notification of shipment and receive the part.