Good:
New Brakes
Body in good condition w/ Very little rust, couple dings
Low Mileage ~122k
Stainless Steel Nerf Bars
Interior in excellent condition
New fuel pump
Clean title in hand

Bad:
Needs tires but drivable currently
Needs AC compressor service or replacement

Well maintained.
Other than the “Bad” items listed above, has clean bill of health from a local Ford dealership.
All recalls up to date.

$4000 Firm.
No SPAM, No help in selling. Serious inquiries only.
No haggling.

Appointment only.
email: c.a.kulish _at_ gmail.com
call or text: 515.344.FOURfour30

So far the 8″ rear axle is out and at SCS Racing getting reconditioned and a Posi-Lock added.

I’ll let the ‘mustang guy’ post up all that is going on.

More to follow…

Bosch 15704 o2 Sensor
Instead of trying to rescue my current sensor

Magnaflow 94606 2.5″ Catalytic Converter
Supposed to be a freer flowing cat

Magnaflow 12226 2.5″ Stainless Muffler
Lifetime warranty, non-baffled, straight through muffler

Walker Exhaust tailpipe 44966
Nothing special, standard routed 2.25″ tailpipe

OLD:

NEW:

No cracked cases, looking to rebuild.

My Airtex fuel pump lasted 11 months. They suck.

That is all.

Here is what I am starting with:

I’ll get better pics as we start removing parts.

3/21/2011
Removed lights, license plate and fuel filler cover.
Looks worse when its all cleaned up.

First piece of armor is clamped in place.
Looks like the tub has been pushed in about 2″.
We’ve decided we’ll need to cut into to the floor to relieve tension where it’s folded over and patch that when it’s back to shape.

3/25/2011
Got it all put back together. Still need to church it up a bit. Looks a lot better than it did.

]]> http://cars.kulish.com/2011/03/18/operation-telephone-pole-repellent/feed/ 0 http://cars.kulish.com/2010/11/05/jeep-frame-repair/ http://cars.kulish.com/2010/11/05/jeep-frame-repair/#comments Sat, 06 Nov 2010 01:45:02 +0000 Jeeps http://cars.kulish.com/?p=46 Continue reading →]]> The ’94 had some frame rot near the shackle hangers in the rear. It’s a common issue with these Jeeps and pretty easy to fix.

I bought a set of these…

from here.

From there it’s a simple matter of cutting out the rust and welding in the plates.

Not a pretty fix, but the tire hides it well enough. You need to get under the Jeep to really see the repair.
It’s been daily driven and wheeled with this in place with no apparent issues to date.

]]> http://cars.kulish.com/2010/11/05/jeep-frame-repair/feed/ 0 http://cars.kulish.com/2010/10/14/listen-slick/ http://cars.kulish.com/2010/10/14/listen-slick/#comments Thu, 14 Oct 2010 16:30:26 +0000 Jeeps http://cars.kulish.com/?p=48 Continue reading →]]> Those are not my high-beams.

I’m sorry that my YJ sits as high as it does. I also apologize that your 1985 Cavalier RS sits that low.

At this point, all I can say is that you are lucky I haven’t done my HID conversion yet. And before you ask, yes my lamps are adjusted properly given the height of the vehicle and the width of the headlight mounts.

Letting me pass you was commendable but passing me later (and getting behind a vehicle that just turned on to the road) served about as much purpose as you flipping me off and slamming on your brakes. It is, at this time, I would like to inform you that the Jeep is armored, front to rear, with 3/16″ steel… minimum. My bumpers are heavier.

Since any vehicle with head lamps more than 18″ off the ground will continue to cause you discomfort, I can only suggest the following items;

1. Learn to flip your rearview mirror. Maybe this article, “How does a car’s rearview mirror work when it’s in the glare-resistant setting?” will help.
2. Failing to accomplish driving tip #1, I would suggest tinting your rear window. It will look cool on your Chevy and is perfectly legal.

]]> http://cars.kulish.com/2010/10/14/listen-slick/feed/ 0